The Break

The break
So there he was through the dry dusty road, his feet were bare and they started to blister in the hot morning sun. But his search for the famous beach off the coast of WA was worth much more than the riches it would cost him, this was about him and the ocean. As he approached the top of the hill with his surfboard and back pack the power of the sun heated every part of his body and filled his heart with joy. Since his childhood he’d longed to feel the strong scent of the ocean filling his lungs he knew now that he was getting close.
He approached the clearing where the mile long beach with sand as white as snow, contrasting with the dark basalt rock platforms visible in the distance. The ocean roared with the power of a thousand elephants he knew it would be a big day. He felt excited but he couldn’t hide his anxiety. As his feet touched the hot sand he looked at the left side of the beach where the reef break was plunging down into the sand, his heart sank. Now the fear welled up inside him, was he really ready to be at one with ocean like her always longed to be, to be in god’s hands.
He placed his board gently on the sand avoiding the fins penetrating the sand and observed the surfers approaching the beach like ants to a carcass. They were all locals and they stared at his foreign inner city look and the board which had not been shaped in the area. At this point in time he was feeling extremely uneasy.   Now not only did he need to think about his place in the water but he had to worry about the aggressive young locals who wanted to keep it local.   There piercing stares made him know that they didn’t want him to be there. These groups of local surfers formed a virtual force field between him and the beach with its power being his own fear. He couldn’t penetrate this imaginary dome; it was like his feet were glued to the sand beneath his feet.
He stood there on the edge of the beach for a good fifteen minutes watching the locals preparing their...